1976. Glenn Tempest on an early repeat (chalkless) of the Arapiles hand-jamming test-piece, Wizard of Ice (20). Back then it was Whillans harness's, Pierre Allain (PA) shoes, weird-ass stopper thingy's and very bad haircuts. At the time Glenn felt that the route way over-graded and suggested to Chris Baxter that it should be re-graded 18 in the next guide. Having failed on an attempted first ascent (a couple of years earlier) Chris reacted by almost spitting his coffee across the campfire. This photo was taken by Keith Egerton who died in 1986 during an attempt on the Southwest Ridge of Jannu (7710m) in the Nepal Himalaya.